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TIME CAFÉ Downtown's Time Café closed, alas, soon after the shutdown of Fez, the mock-Moroccan performance space below it. Though both the uptown and downtown branches' eggs Benny were just poor to fair, downtown's gym-size soda-fountain decor, with its tiled floor and whirling ceiling fans, did offer great people-watching. That Time served everyone from the painfully hip to the shabbily collegiate, with older minor moguls and tourists spiking the mix. The remaining uptown branch is more of a diner, with no boho chic to make up for a brunch that took too so long to arrive on my visit that the main ingredients could barely be tasted. The hollandaise sauce had congealed into yellow bathroom caulk. The first thing to do with eggs Benedict run the fork across the top to taste just the sauce. It should ooze like the watches in Dali's Persistence of Memory paintings. But Time's hollandaise came off in a Frisbee-like cap, and I could not chip off the sauce that had run to the edge of the plate. Well-poached eggs were still runny inside but had lost almost all heat. The Canadian bacon was flavorful but salty. The English muffins were well toasted. Home fries comprised very spicy cubed potato. A $4.75 side order of bacon was generous and crispy. The mimosa was good, with lots of icy champagne still bubbling upwards. But bread, taters, bacon, and booze aside -- oh, the bloody Mary was bland -- the central dish disappointed. As I chomped through it, a clueless busperson mistakenly offered me someone else's eggs Benedict. Maybe that second wrong would've made a right. Time Café eggs Benedict is hardly worth the price at either location, but at at least the downtown one has a scene. Rest rooms: Downtown: clean, spacious, and glossily black. Uptown: clean, spacious, and institutional. |
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